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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.